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Fig. 49 Fig. 50 C When cross-cutting a number of pieces to the same length, clamp a block of wood (B) to the fence and use it as a cutoff gauge (Fig. 51). The block (B) must be at least 3/4" thick to prevent the cut-off piece from binding between the blade and the fence during removal from the saw table. Always position this block of wood in front of the saw blade. Once the cut-off length is determined, lock the fence and use the miter gauge to feed the work into the cut. When using the block (B) Fig. 51 as a cut-off gauge, it is very important that the rear end of the block be positioned so the workpiece is clear of the block before it enters the blade. B Fig. 51 Never use the fence as a cut-off gauge when cross-cutting. 19 MITERING Mitering (the operation shown in Fig. 52) is the same as crosscutting except that the miter gauge (C) is locked at an angle other than 0°. Hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge and feed the work slowly into the blade to prevent the workpiece from moving. Use caution when starting the cut to prevent binding of the guard against the workpiece. Miter angles greater than 45° may force the guard into the saw blade and damage the guard. Before starting the motor, test the operation by feeding the workpiece into the guard. If the guard contacts the blade, place the work piece under the guard, NOT TOUCHING THE BLADE, before starting the motor. Fig. 52 C Certain workpiece shapes, such as moulding, may not lift the guard properly. Feed the work slowly to start the cut. BEVEL CROSSCUTTING Bevel crosscutting (shown in Fig. 53) is the same as crosscutting except the bevel angle is set to an angle other than 0°. miter gauge and your hands. When possible, use the right miter gauge slot when bevel crosscutting so that the blade tilts away from the Use caution when starting the cut to prevent binding of the guard against the workpiece. COMPOUND MITERING Compound Mitering (Fig. 54) is a combination of bevel crosscutting and mitering, where the blade is beveled to an angle other than 0° and the miter gauge is locked at an angle other than 0°. Always use the miter slot (D) which allows the blade to tilt away from the miter gauge and hands. Fig. 53 Fig. 54 D RIPPING Ripping (Fig. 55) is cutting lengthwise through a board. The rip fence (A) is used to position and guide the work. One edge of the work rides against the rip fence while the flat side of the board rests on the table. The saw blade guard must be used. On Delta saws, the guard has anti-kickback PAWLs to prevent kickback and a splitter to prevent the wood kerf from closing and binding the blade. Be sure to replace or sharpen the anti-kickback devices when the points become dull. A rip fence should always be used for ripping operations. NEVER perform a ripping operation free-hand. Always lock the fence to the rail. The workpiece must have a straight edge against the fence, and must not be warped, twisted or bowed. 1. Before starting the cut, raise the blade so that it is about 1/8” (3.2mm) higher than the top of the workpiece. Start the motor and advance the work, holding it down and against the fence. Never stand in the line of the saw cut when ripping. When the rip width is 6 inches or wider, hold the work with both hands and push it along the fence and into the saw blade (Fig. 48). Feed force when ripping should always be applied between the saw blade and the fence. Never pull the workpiece from the back of the saw. The work should then be fed through the saw blade with the right hand. Only use the left hand to guide the workpiece against the fence, and remove the left hand from the work about 12 inches in front of the blade. Do not feed the workpiece with the left hand. Continue to feed material with right hand, keeping to the right of the path of the blade. After the cut is complete, use a push stick to feed cut-off piece past the blade. 20 2. When the workpiece is past the blade, the work will either stay on the table or tilt up slightly and be caught by the end of the guard. Alternately, the feed will continue to the end of the table, and be lifted and brought along the outside edge of the fence. When ripping boards longer than three feet, use a work support at the rear of the saw to keep the workpiece from falling off the saw table. 3. If the size or shape of the workpiece would cause your hands to be within six inches of the saw blade, use a push stick to complete the cut (Fig. 52) The push stick can easily be made from scrap material as explained in the section “CONSTRUCTING A PUSH STICK.” 4. Ripping narrow pieces can be dangerous. If possible, rip the narrow piece from the larger piece. If the workpiece is short enough, use a pushboard. (A pushboard can be constructed as shown in Fig. 57 and used as shown in Fig. 58.) NOTE: In Fig. 58 the guard and splitter have been removed for clarity. Guard and splitter should be used when ripping. 5. For longer pieces, use one or more pushsticks to avoid placing your hands between...

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