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Hersteller: Kenmore Dateigröße: 8.01 mb Dateiname: Unterrichtssprache:

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: , Test the needle -it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers. 2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. 3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be dodble thickness, Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric. , Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam. ° Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the speed control, the faster the machine will sew. . Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. 7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point. o Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. 9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES .... STRAIGHT STITCHING Set your machine just as shown in the illustration in order to straight stitch. it is important each dial have the following settings. SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial . wwa_--_ Stitch Width Control -Red Dot Stitch Length Control -12 to 6 Special Stitch Modifier -Red Dot Straight Stitch Foot Straight Stitch Needle Plate You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing -temporary and permanent. 1. Temporary stitching -Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are: Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2. Permanent stitching -This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking. The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control. You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are: Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area. FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam. Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam. 26 TURNING A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial -ww_=_-Stitch Width Control -1 to 4 Stitch Length Control -Any number Special Stitch Modifier -Red Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, blind hem, applique, button hole, monogram, and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine. Simply use the settings indicated in the illustr_ion for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the follow ing pages for more specific uses. OVERCASTING This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construc. tion. You may, want to overcast along the raw _edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or Worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection. 1. Straight Stretch I\I 2. Rick _Rack Stretch \/ ,,,> •k 3. Smocking Stretch 4. Elastic Stretch /\/ 5. Overcast Stretch ...

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