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3. Move the point of skew to the right half of the desired width of your cut, see Figure 19. 4. With the bevel parallel to the right side of the cut, raise the handle and push the tool in to the desired depth. 5. Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut. 6. Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the depth or width of the cut. Parting 1. Place the parting tool on the tool rest and raise the handle until it starts to cut and continue to cut to the desired depth. 2. If the cut is deep a clearance cut should be made along side the first cut to prevent the tool tip from burning. Beads 1. Place the parting tool on the tool rest and move it forward to allow the full bevel of the tool to contact the workpiece. Gently raise the handle to make the cut to the appropriate depth. 2. Repeat for the other side of the bead. 3. Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in the center between the two cuts and cut down each side to form the bead. Roll the tool in the direction of the cut. 16 Sanding and Finishing Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Adjust the lathe to a finishing speed, and begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details. Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece. To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe. Turn the lathe off and use a brush, or cloth to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting lathe. Allow it to dry and sand again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply additional coats of finish and buff. Face Plate and Bowl Turning Faceplate turning is normally done on the inboard side of the headstock over the bed; see Figure 20.You must move the headstock to the end of the lathe bed for larger workpieces. Mounting Stock Use of a faceplate is the most common method for holding a block of wood for turning bowls, and plates, see Figure 21. 1. Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the dimension on the desired finished workpiece. 2. True one surface of workpiece for mounting against the faceplate. It is best to leave extra stock against the faceplate that can be cut off when the workpiece is finished. 3. Using the faceplate as a template, mark the location of the mounting holes, and drill pilot holes of the appropriate size. If the mounting screws on the faceplate interfere with the workpiece, a waste block can be mounted to the faceplate and then the waste block mounted to the workpiece by gluing or screwing, see Figure 21. 4. Both waste block and workpiece should have good flat surfaces. 5. Push in the spindle lock and thread faceplate and workpiece onto spindle. Tighten setscrews in faceplate when secure. 17 Face Plate or Chuck While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable method of holding a block of wood for turning, chucks can also be used. A chuck is not a requirement but is handy when working on more than one piece at a time. Rather than removing screws, you simply open the chuck and change workpieces. The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chucks with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well. Wood Selection Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available stock to use while learning to turn bowls. Develop skill with each tool before attempting to make a finished piece. It is best to start with dry wood, without worrying about drying or distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try green wood, which cuts very easily. As the turner gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and bark inclusions. Checks and Cracks Green wood will check and crack. For best results, leave logs in as long lengths as you can handle. As the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches and you should find good, sound wood. Also, cut the log in half along the pith to avoid having it in the finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith. As you turn bowls from green wood, make sure you maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the piece. Leaving a piece thick in some areas and thin in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and promote checks and cracks. Distortion Distortion is a problem associated with turning green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than others do. It also varies with the time of year the tree was cut and how the logs are stored. Tools for Bowl Turning The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential and versatile tool for most bowl and faceplate style turning. The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than other types of gouges. It also allows removal of wood much faster and with less vibration than other gouges. Most average sized bowl work can be accomplished with a 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gou...

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