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Anleitung Zusammenfassung
17 GUIDE FABRIC THREAD NEEDLE Length ofstitches Indicaof Pressure of tension \ Fabric Thread Needle presser foot ST. ZZ. Pressure Stitch length \ \ regulation a \o It Nylon 80 Cotton Light Tricot 605. Fibe 11 0.5-3 0.5-3 \\\ Silk 50 silk 50S.Fibe Wool silk Silk 11 Medium 60-80 Gingham Cotton 0.5-4 0.5—4 or E1hinJerse6QSFibe 5 14 Gabardine 50 Silk Heavy Denim 50 cotton 14 1—4 0.5—5 ‘\\ Jersey 50 S. Fibei 14 Tweed 50 Silk 14 As a general rule use shorter stitch lengths on finer fabrics and longer stitch length with heavier fabrics, finer thread and needles with finer fabrics and heavier thread arii needles with heavier fabrics. Use special ‘ball point’ or ‘stretch’ needles on difficul stretchy fabrics. 18 4 I SEWING (PATTERN SELECTOR) AND OPERATION TABLE Setch Length Presser Foot Drop !ecd Stitch Stitch Patterns 1 Straight Stitch • 1 1 2 ZZag - • B i nd Hem > j2 Thread step-Zigzag 3 Stitch Slant Overedge Straight Stretch Stitch 5 Button Hoie exCept 1 6 Twin Needle buttOn hce 4 Not Freehand Necessary — Embroidery . [f I 19 TO START SEWING Important Hints. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position when starting and stopping 1. sewing. 2. Hold both threads about 10 cms to the rear of machine for the first two or three stitches. 3. Sufficient fabric should be placed under needle before lowering presser foot. 4. Depress foot/Speed control and start to sew. Test the machine stitches on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, adjusting the 5. machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric. Attention. 1. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. 2. Guide the cloth gently with your hand. 3. To prevent breaking needle always stop with the needle out of the fabric. TO FINISH SEAM I ii ii 1. Sew to the edge of seam. 2. Push the reverse button and sew in reverse for about 2—3 cms. 3. Raise needle to its highest position. 4. Lift presser foot and pull out the fabric to rear of machine. 5. Cut threads, as shown, on the thread cutter. 21 II I /7 I BLIND HEMMING Fold the fabric as illustrated with the “wrong” side facing upwards.(1) I I Place the folded fabric under the foot as shown. :1 Turn the hand wheel towards you by hand, urtil the needle swings over to the It should then just pierce the fold of the fabric. (2( If it does not then far left. adjust the position of the fabric. Once the correct position of the fabric has been set, position the “guide” of the foot (3) up against the fold (2) by turning the nut (4) . Proceed to sew carefully feeding the fabric to ensure it retains the correct posi tion against the guide. (3) Note: Some practice will be needed to obtain the best results. Always test the stitch first on a spare piece of fabric. 2 I J 23 THREE STEP ZIG-ZAG The three step zig-zag stitch has a wide range of sewing applications, such as patching, darning, repairing tears, mending, sewing on elastic and lace, oversew ing edges etc. on a wide range of fabrics. The illustration shows patching, where the stitches are to the edge of the patch and a tear, where the stitches go firstly over the centre of the tear and then to either side but overlapping slighly on the first row. The stitch length can be reduced until the stitches are very close together. This will give a stronger finish for most repairing operations. : : 24 SEWING ON BUTTONS 1. Fit darning pate as described on page 12. 2. Use button presser foot and attach firmly 3. Place button between presser foot and fabric and lower presser foot. 4. Manuaily turn hand wheel towards you ensuring that the needle enters into both holes of button without obstruction. (Increase or decrease width settng(. 5. Sew about 7 stitches. 6. Pull both threads to the underside and tie together. 27 SEWING IN ZIPS Ft the Zipper foot. The Zipper foot can be moved to the left or right. (2) To sew on the right hand side of the zipper, move foot over to the right as illustrated and reverse the procedure to sew the left hand side of the zipper. (3) To move the “zip slider” out of the way, leave needle in the fabric, raise foot and slide it behind the foot. Lower the foot and continue. 28 /7, BUTTON HOLE SEWING Ft the button hole foot. Set the s:tch length dial within the green marking to achieve the correct density (closeness) of satin sttch. (1) Sew in the sequence illustrated (1) selecting patterns 18, 19, 20 and 19 again. USER TIPS Always sew a sample buttonhole on some spare fabric as settings will change according to the fabric used. For very thin, stretchy or other difficult fabrics, try using interfacing (vilene) or tissue or other paper underneath the fabric to aid machine feeding. Always use the Buttonhole foot using its calibrated markings to measure the buttonhole length. On suitable fabric, a corded buttonhole can be sewn taking j care that the zig-zag stitches of the buttonhole oversew the cord. (2) Carefully cut between the sIdes (beads) of the buttonhole with the seam ripper using a pin through the end bar tack (2) to prevent the ...
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