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Hersteller: Husqvarna Dateigröße: 1.36 mb Dateiname: L0205057.pdf Unterrichtssprache:

COMPOUND-ANGLE SETTINGS FOR POPULAR STRUCTURES 24 CUTTING CROWN MOLDING Your compound miter saw does an excellent job of cutting crown molding. In general, compound miter saws do a better job of cutting crown molding than any other tool made. In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy. The two contact surfaces on a piece of crown molding that fit flat against the ceiling and the wall of a room are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90". Most crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the section that fits flat against the wall) of 38 °. LAYING MOLDING FLAT ON THE MITER TABLE See Figure 32. To use this method for accurately cutting crown molding for a 90" inside or outside comer, lay the molding with its broad back surface flat on the miter table and against the fence. 38:,, LING FENCE TOP EDGEAGAINSTFENCE= • LEFTSIDE,INSIDECORNER • RIGHTSIDE,OUTSIDECORNER MITERTABLE ©© When setting the bevel and miter angles for compound miters, remember that the settings are interdependent; changing one angle changes the other angle as well. Keep in mind that the angles for crown moldings are very precise and difficult to set. Since it is very easy for these angles to shift, all settings should first be tested on scrap molding. Also most walls do not have angles of exactly 90°, therefore, you will need to fine tune your settings. When cutting crown molding by this method the bevel angle should be set at 33.85 °`The miter angle should be set at 31.62 ° either right or left, depending on the desired cut for the application. See the chart below for correct angle settings and correct positioning of crown molding on miter table. The settings in the chart below can be used for cutting All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles. The crown molding is placed flat on the miter table using the compound features of your miter saw. CORNER OUTSIDE CORNER FENCE BOTFOMEDGEAGAINSTFENCE= • RIGHTSIDE,INSIDECORNER OUTSIDECORNER MITERTABLE CROWNMOLDINGFLATONMITERTABLE Fig. 32 25 Bevel Angle Setting Type of Cut 33"85° Left side, inside corner 1. Top edge of molding against 2. Miter table set right 31.62 ° 3. Save left end of cut fence 33.85* Right side, inside corner 1. Bottom edge of molding against fence 2. Miter table set left 31.62" 3. Save left end of cut 33.85" Left side, outside corner 1. Bottom edge of molding against fence 2. Miter table set left 31.62* 3. Save right end of cut 33.85" Right side, outside corner 1. Top edge of molding against fence 2. Miter table set right 31.62 ° 3. Save right end of cut CUTTING WARPED MATERIAL See Figures 33 and 34. When cutting warped material, always make sure it is positioned on the miter table with the convex side against the fence as shown in figure 33. If the warped material is positioned the wrong way as shown in figure 34, it will pinch the blade near the completion of the cut. WRONG Fig. 34 _lb WARNING: To avoid a kickback and to avoid serious personal injury, never position the concave edge of bowed or warped material against the fence. CLAMPING WIDE WORKPIECES See Figure 35. When cutting wide workpieces such as a 2 in. x 6 in., boards should be clamped with a C-clamp as shown in figure 35. WIDE BOARD Fig. 35 RIGHT Fig. 33 26 WARNING:Whenservicing,useonlyidentical Craftsmanreplacementpads.Useofanyother partmay create a hazard or cause product damage. GENERAL Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts. Most plastics are susceptible to damage from various types of commercial solvents and may be damaged by their use. Use clean cloths to remove dirt, carbon dust, etc. _1= WARNING: Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-based products, penetrating oils, etc. come in contact with plastic parts. They contain chemicals that can damage, weaken or destroy plastic. It has been found that electric tools are subject to accelerated wear and possible premature failure when they are used on fiberglass boats, sports cars, wallboard, spackling compounds, or plaster. The chips and grindings from these materials are highly abrasive to electric tool parts such as bearings, brushes, commutators, etc. Consequently, it is not recommended that this tool be used for extended work on any fiberglass material, wallboard, spackling compounds, or plaster. During any use on these materials it is extremely important that the tool is cleaned frequently by blowing with an air jet. LUBRICATION All of the bearings in this tool are lubricated with a sufficient amount of high grade lubricant for the life of the unit under normal operating conditions. Therefore, no further lubrication is required. EXTENSION CORDS The use of any extension cord will cause some loss of power. To keep the loss to a minimum and to prevent tool overheating, use an extension cord that is heavy enough to carry the current the tool will draw. A wire gage size (A.W.G.) of at least 14 is r...

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